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Tomatoes!

Season Nine, Summer 2009

Tomatoes!

Nothing symbolizes healthy eating more than the tomato. They are one of the most nutritious fruits that one can eat, but must be enjoyed when the time is right. That is because native tomatoes grown locally have a completely different flavor and texture than the store-bought tomatoes we find in the midst of Winter. This episode is dedicated to all of the farmers and gardeners who grow these "love apples" for us to enjoy in the late Summer.

Cooking Show Photo

Cherokee Purple Tomatoes (not yet ripe)

September 18, 2009   |   0 comments
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Recipe

This salad is fast, easy, and very fresh. The tomatoes release juice as they marinate, so it becomes quite liquidy and great for dipping bread.

2 medium to large heirloom tomatoes (mix together different colors if possible)
1 ear of corn, shucked
2 tablespoons of thinly sliced shallot
About 4-5 sage leaves, 4-5 leaves of basil, a few mint leaves, and half the needles from a sprig of rosemary.
A handful of cape gooseberries (optional), husked
½ teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt

Remove the hard tip of the tomatoes, where it hangs from on the vine, with a paring knife.
Slice the tomato in half vertically, then slice each half in half vertically again. Now slice the tomatoes horizontally in very thin pieces. Transfer to a bowl and season with salt.
Lay the corn cob flat across your cutting board, and slice off the kernels. Add to the bowl with the tomatoes.
Finely chop the herbs, and toss into the bowl along with the thinly sliced shallot.
Halve and/or quarter the cape gooseberries, if using, and add to the mix as well.
Whisk together the lemon zest, lemon juice, white wine vinegar, a pinch of salt, and olive oil. Taste for seasoning and acid/oil balance and adjust if necessary. Pour over the salad and toss well.
Serves 4 as side dish.

We prepared this dish for a demo at the Union Square Farmers Market. When sliced thinly, tomatoes pick up a ton of flavor from the herbs and vinaigrette that we toss them with. It is fast, fresh, and very light. We recommend trying it with raw scallops, served ceviche style. It also goes great with fresh fish and grilled poultry.
September 14, 2009   |   2 comments
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Food for Thought

Can you imagine Italian food without tomato sauce? Spain without gazpacho in the Summer? Or Lebanese fattoush salad without the bright red of chopped tomatoes? Tomatoes are such an integral ingredient in so many cuisines around the world, that it is hard to believe they were introduced into many of them only a few hundred years ago. Tomatoes originated in Mexico, and it was not until the 16th Century that they were taken to Europe to be planted in new soil. But even then, they were observed with caution. In England they believed tomatoes to be poisonous, and responsible for causing many kinds of ills. Many other plants in the nightshade family Solanaceae, like eggplant, were regarded in the same way. It took at least 100 years before they made their way into the culinary repertoire of the Old World.

The tomato is a cooling fruit that peaks in late Summer, when we need it most. There are four parts to a tomato: the outer skin, the fruit wall, the inner pith, and the liquid gel in the center with the seeds. The tomato’s juiciest part is by far the liquid sacs around the seeds in the middle, which is most often removed in professional kitchens in favor of the fleshy fruit wall. We cannot imagine getting rid of the pleasantly acidic juice of the tomato, one of the most cooling and refreshing flavors of Summer.

Tomatoes are rich in vitamins A and C, and they are excellent for maintaining healthy hearts and low blood pressure. In fact, if you cut open a tomato across its horizontal midsection you will see four chambers of seed sacs. This is a direct replica of the human heart. Food has an innate ability to tell you what it is good for, and tomatoes tell you they are good for your cardiovascular system. Their red color is a sigh of lycopene, a powerful anti-oxidant that has proven strong in preventing multiple types of cancers. We also like to think that their smooth exterior also shows how soft one’s skin can be if they are eaten regularly.

Tomatoes are best eaten in the late Summer, early Fall when they are at their peak. As a culture, we have become used to having access to foods all year round, regardless of the seasons. Tomatoes should not be a dietary staple in the Winter, unless they are canned. Tomatoes shipped from abroad are picked green and treated with ethylene gas to turn red, which is obviously not the healthiest way to eat. Tomatoes are best eaten with barely any seasoning besides salt and maybe some olive oil and vinegar. They are well balanced by mild dairy products, like yogurt and mozzarella cheese, but should be avoided by people with arthritis, as they are calcium inhibitors.

September 12, 2009   |   0 comments
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Recipe

A good risotto is well worth the effort. Not that it is hard dish to master- risotto is quite an easy formula to learn. All you have to do is stay attentive to how much liquid is in the pan at all times. Our advice is to choose one ingredient to feature, and keep it simple. Risotto is a great way to let an in-season ingredient shine.
This recipe uses tomatoes in 3 ways: chopped, grated, and halved. We cook it with Spanish sherry and finish it with a mild goat milk cheese from Spain as well. The basil that goes at the end is obligatory; it shows off basil in its best form.

2 tablespoons olive oil
½ yellow onion, small dice
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 cups tomato, small dice
2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
½ cup dry sherry
8 cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 cup grated tomato (about 1-2 medium tomatoes)
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved and/or quartered
½ cup hard goat cheese from Spain, grated
A good handful of fresh basil leaves

Bring the broth to a boil and keep at a light simmer.
Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 4-5 minutes. Add the garlic and chopped tomatoes and stir. Cook everything together until the tomatoes break down and get quite mushy, about 7-10 minutes. Stir in the rice and coat well with all of the tomato mixture in the pan.
Add the sherry and stir. Once the sherry has cooked down, pour in about 1 cup of broth. Keep stirring the rice with the broth, making sure it all gets integrated together. As the broth gets absorbed by the rice, add another cup. When you have added all of the broth you can, test the rice. If the rice is ready (it should be cooked through, but not mushy- it should have a little strength to it left), stir in the remaining grated tomato, halved cherry tomatoes, and then the cheese. Tear up the basil leaves and stir in as well. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

This risotto is all about tomatoes. We use grated beefsteak tomatoes to create a nice juicy broth, and sweet cherry tomatoes to garnish the dish at the end. Creamy Arborio rice is the perfect backdrop for these Summer jewels, both in flavor and color. We throw in a lot of chopped basil at the end, which is an indispensable compliment to the tomatoes.
September 12, 2009   |   0 comments
Tags: Entrees, Pasta & Risotto, Summer, Vegetarian, Whole grain
Tasty Tip

When you think of tomatoes, think small. Think of simple combinations that add to either the sweetness or the acidity of the fruit. Tomatoes and Salt, Tomatoes and Sesame Seeds, Tomatoes and Mozzarella, etc. Pictured is a simple Tomato & Scallion Salsa that brings out the flavor of both ingredients, without going overboard with other flavors. Be sure to use the small, sweet cherry tomatoes for this recipe.

September 12, 2009   |   0 comments
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Recipe

The point of a recipe like panzanella is to put to use stale bread that has gotten hard. The juice from the tomatoes softens the bread and gives it a delicious flavor. If you want to use fresh bread, simply toast it until it is hard. There are no exact quantities for this recipe, we leave it up to you and how much stale bread you have in your kitchen.

Stale bread, cut into cubes
Tomatoes, quartered
Red onion, a few thin slices
A few leaves of basil
Raw cacao nuts (otherwise known as cocoa nibs)
1/2 avocado, thinly sliced
About 4 white anchovies, chopped
Sprinkle chile ancho powder
Salt and Pepper
Olive oil
Balsamic Vinegar

Toss together the tomatoes and bread.
Set the red onion in a bowl of water for about 10 minutes.
Add the onion to the bowl, along with a few torn leaves of basil, the raw chocolate, avocado, anchovies, and chile ancho powder.
Drizzle over a couple tablespoons of olive oil and vinegar and toss again.

Panzanella salad is a great recipe to use when you have stale bread in the house. The idea is to not waste food, and when you add stale bread to a tomato salad, it sops up the juice and becomes soft. Our version incorporates avocado and raw cacao nibs, which along with tomatoes, are New World ingredients. Cacao nibs have a bitter flavor that goes well with the acidity of tomatoes.
September 12, 2009   |   0 comments
Tags: Avocado, Healthy, Salads & Dressings, Vegetarian
Recipe

These stuffed tomatoes are simply made with ricotta, herbs, and the tomatoes’ own juices. The tomato juice makes the mixture a soft shade of pink. You can use any kind of tomato of any size, but note that if you use a larger tomato, you will not use all of the reserved juices (you will still use all of the flesh). Small stuffed tomatoes make great appetizers. If you find that your ricotta mixture is too loose, you can add a piece of stale bread broken up into pieces.

8 medium sized tomatoes
1 cup ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 scallions, finely chopped (white and pale green parts only)
½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
4-5 sage leaves, finely chopped
4-5 mint leaves, finely chopped
2 sprigs rosemary, finely chopped

Slice off the top eighth of each tomato flat across.
Scoop out the seeds and juice and reserve.
In a food processor, combine the ricotta, olive oil, scallion, zest, and herbs, as well as the reserved tomato seeds and juice. Puree until smooth. Season well with salt and pulse again.
Meanwhile, turn each tomato upside down, so that the juices drain.
Fill the tomatoes with the ricotta mixture and season with freshly cracked black peppercorns.
The sauce also makes a great topping for bread or sauce for pasta.

Makes 8 stuffed tomatoes.

These stuffed tomatoes use the tomato's own juices to make the sauce. We encourage you to buy local ricotta cheese when making this dish, as the nuances in the flavor will improve the final product. Sage, mint, and rosemary may sound like a strange combination, but they work really well together and have a surprising profile.
September 12, 2009   |   0 comments
Tags: Antioxidant, Appetizers, Fruit, Gluten-free, Healthy, Summer
Cooking Show Video

This stuffed tomato recipe is very simple. It is just a combination of local ricotta, mixed herbs, olive oil, and lemon juice. The secret to the sauce is the mixture of sage and mint, which are not herbs typically used together. You want to make this close to the time you serve them, as you should not refrigerate tomatoes EVER!

September 12, 2009   |   1 comments
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