The Romans often referred to the Mediterranean as Mare Nostrum, Our Sea, because their empire encircled it. We are all familiar with many of the vestiges of that empire on its northern side, including our modern romance languages, Christianity, and ancient cities including Rome herself. The Arab and then later the Ottoman conquests from the 7th to the 15th centuries have, however, estranged our “western civilization” from the southern side. Indeed, for many years the Islamic powers could almost lay claim to the Mediterranean as their Mare Nostrum. While the Roman language and Christianity have mostly disappeared from North Africa, many tangible remains of Phoenician, Greek, and Roman occupation remain. It was in the spirit of discovering some of these ancient cities that I and a hundred other like-minded people recently sailed from Alexandria to Casablanca.

Alexandria

I had always wanted to go to Alexandria. I wanted to see it, to touch it, to fall under the spell of its history, which started with the founder of the city, Alexander the Great. The celebrated Cleopatra, the last true Pharaoh of the Ptolemaic dynasty which succeeded Alexander for the following three hundred years, on learning of the victory of Caesar Augustus at Actium, had herself killed by the bite of an asp in her Alexandrian palace. To the Egyptian capital came Caesar, Pompey, Mark Anthony, Saladin, Bonaparte, and Montgomery. She was the city of the Septuagint, Philo, Origen, Athanasius, and the many other philosophers and theologians of the Christian, Muslim, and Jewish faiths who have had such an important influence on the world’s intellectual and religious development. The repository of this learning was the Royal Library of Alexandria. Perhaps there was more than one building, (which would go a long way to explain the reason for the various theories concerning the destruction(s) by fire) to house its tremendous collection of scrolls and codices. The harbor of Alexandria was illuminated by the famous pharos or lighthouse, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, and the port was of strategic importance to Mediterranean trade. The pharos apparently used reflecting mirrors during the day and a fiery furnace by night. When Rome ousted the Hellenistic Ptolemaic line she gained control of the rich agricultural resources of the Nile valley and delta (which still feed and clothe a nation of 80 million people) and the port of Alexandria through which the bulk of this produce would have to pass. Alexandria was not just another city. Prior to Rome’s ascendancy she must have been the biggest and most influential city in the world.

Pompey's Pillar: Alexandria

The ruins of the pharos (leveled largely by earthquakes) are now underwater but the old library has been recreated in the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a large modern building erected near the site of the ancient library to be cultural and scientific center with a capacity for eight million books. The major remaining ancient monument in Alexandria today is Pompey’s Pillar, although it seems that it was for Diocletian and not by the great general that the great pillar was erected. As with the obelisks, one just stands, looks, and wonders as to the methods the ancients (in this case Egyptians and Romans) used to hoist the massive granite. Many parts of the city which benefited of the largesse of the Muhammad Ali Pasha dynasty and British rule in the 19th and early 20th centuries are still evident in their fading beauty. It must have been wonderful to have a name and money in turn-of-the century Alexandria, although late nights must have been the norm.
But now, in the 21st century the 2300 year history of Alexandria as a cosmopolitan open metropolis where all Mediterranean languages were spoken, all people lived, and all thoughts professed, is being challenged. The modern day “Queen of the Mediterranean” is in many places literally crumbling and is turning inward to the rest of Egypt.

Hopefully this change will not happen to its once-multinational cuisine. One can imagine the influences on the Alexandrian kitchen over the centuries, when it was for long periods the capital of Egypt and always its “window to the world”. Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Kurdish, Turkish, and British (to name the major ones) brought their own additions to a Mediterranean diet. And, often they brought not just the food but rules to go with it. For example, the British brought in teatime, 4-6pm. It must be engraved somewhere on the Rosetta Stone because Egyptians admit of no alterations. I remember once trying to get a gin and tonic before 6pm while cruising down the Nile. I was not only rebuffed, but with opprobrium. The Empire and the ancient Egyptian insistence on the proper order of all actions still live, even for a G&T.

With these nostalgic and troubled thoughts about past and present in mind, we left Alexandria and sailed westward towards the oasis of Siwa, where we were to have a great adventure.

Stay tuned for Part 2.