Monthly Archive
Food in Film Series: Politiki Kouzina
Politiki Kouzina (2003)--A Touch of Spice, English Title--directed by Tassos Boulmetis is a recent example of how food can be not only the basic ingredient to a wonderful film, but also its protagonist. The film takes place over the span of roughly four decades, beginning at the time of the population exchange of Greeks out of Turkey [to Greece] in the late 1950’s-early 1960’s. It is set largely between Athens and Istanbul (Constantinople), the latter having been built on the Bosphorus which adds tremendous sensitivity to the scenery and majestic nature of the Turkish city.
Politiki Kouzina weaves together the story of a grandson’s love and loyalty to his grandfather and home with the memories and passions he sets out to fulfill, including his love for Saime, his childhood companion and love of his life. Fanis, an astronomer and professor in his adult life, falls into memory throughout the film. Allusions to subtle and strong scents along with visual references to food are the mechanisms for evocation of Fanis’ remembering experiences from his past.
Ever-present throughout the film, spices and food can certainly be considered a major character in this film. Structurally, even, the film is formatted to follow the courses of a meal. The opening scene of a baby breastfeeding, with a touch of sugar to the teet, is a very tender look at our first meal in life and a very artistic and philosophical reference to the very natural and nurturing aspect of the female breast—oftentimes a sexualized aspect of female anatomy, which in fact provides essential function to the circle and beginnings of life and nourishment.
In the geopolitical and social contexts of the film, food and its presence quite pronouncedly propel the storyline forward. There are gender-role expectations associated with food (cooking is for the women), excitement and conversation about the perfect recipes and how the young culinary genius (Fanis) continues to perfect them despite being a boy, and references as to how and where the food and meals create a common link and bond between otherwise conflicting Greek and Turkish communities.
One of the more beautiful ‘food scenes’ (in my opinion) is early on in the film, when Fanis—having opened the film with a look through his telescope—recalls his early interest in stars alongside his grandfather, a spice-shop owner in a small village in Istanbul, Turkey. To paraphrase, his grandfather makes an analogy of the spices to each planet. Salt: the Earth. Venus (or, “Aphrodite”) is represented by cinnamon: the spice of love and, like all women according to his Grandfather, ‘cinnamon is both bitter and sweet’.
Fanis' grandfather elaborates these two specifics in reminding the young boy that, like salt, ‘even if we cannot taste it, that does not mean it isn’t there’. This comparison returns later in the sad form of departure. When Fanis and his parents are forced to leave, as part of the Turkish expulsion of Greeks to Athens, his Grandfather—hugging him—whispers a confidence to Fanis’ ear: just because I am not with you, like salt, it does not mean I am not ‘here’, as he points to Fanis’ heart. This idea of the ‘presence’ vs. ‘absence’ of people, places and emotions is thereafter [subtly] connected to the use of salt in the preparation of different dishes.
One of the most beautiful analogies, in my opinion, is the reference to cinnamon. The tender origins of the shop attic scenes, dancing, and the dipping of postcards into cinnamon between Fanis and Saime connect to the emotional context of the film’s present focus when Fanis, having returned to Turkey after his grandfather’s death, finds his long-lost childhood love. In hopes to woo and court the beautiful woman, he prepares meatballs—‘kofte’—with cinnamon. Both she and her estranged (Turkish) husband detect the aromatic, delicious taste of the fabled aphrodisiac and Fanis’ impervious, and now unrequited, love manifests in front of everyone, including the audience.
Sophia and I discussed the variety of recipes she could prepare for this adjunct, and we agreed that the Kofte (with cinnamon) would be exciting for both the palate and the soul. In that, she has prepared a recipe to add to the Kitchen Caravan recipe bank that will bring a spice of life to your kitchen.
There are countless places in Politiki Kouzina where a spice, a recipe, a taste, or a food represents a vessel for emotional expression without words. It is a very strong reminder for each of us, I am sure, as to how we associate different aspects of our lives with olfactory and taste memories—and how pivotal and constant each can be in our ability to cope, laugh, cry, and simply feel.
The next film we will discuss and recipe-up for Kitchen Caravan is Woman On Top (2000) directed by Fina Torres and Even Ramboz, and starring the beautiful Penelope Cruz. Prepare for a more sensual journey into Brazilian cuisine and remember to rent it from your local video store, or NetFlix!
Bon Appetit! In Greek, “Kali Orexi”! In Turkish, “Afiyet Olsun!”
Related Recipes
A Garden of Cocktails
Last Summer my family and I went out to Montana to visit my uncle and aunt at their ranch. My aunt is a fabulous cook, and I spent many hours reading through her cookbook library. One of my favorite books that I came across was The Gentleman’s Companion: Volume II, Being an Exotic Drinking Book or, Around the World with Jigger, Beaker and Flask by Charles H. Baker, Jr. The book had actually belonged to my grandfather, and seeing that I loved it so much, my uncle and aunt sent me a copy that they found for my birthday. Each cocktail description made me laugh our loud and wish that one day I can write a cocktail book with recipes such as The Sahara Glowing Heart Cocktail, which will also include instructions for how to enjoy each libation, “ . . . when out under the moon in a desert overnight camp, riding camels out across the vast dunes, or strolling in the moonlight around the Sphinx with some congenial young woman companion.”
Anyway, it was in this book that I found much of my inspiration for cocktail making this year, as well as learned about many old family traditions. As it turns out, my grandfather was famous for his Ramos Fizz cocktails, which he would make every year for their famous "Breakfast Party". Having just learned this, the variation on the recipe, the Fizz à la Violette, which is a Ramos Fizz with Violet liqueur instead of Orange Blossom water, jumped out at me. I had never seen that type of floral liqueur, but was determined to hunt it down. As I soon found out, the same company that produces St. Germain, the elderflower liqueur, was re-introducing Crème Yvette, an old French violet liqueur made with violet petals and spices, which had been stopped in 1969. It just came back onto the market in March, right in time for Spring, when we love to cook with flowers here at Kitchen Caravan.
The three cocktails below are all inspired by the beauty that flowers bring us in the Spring as well as the classic cocktails that our grandparents would have known by heart. All we did was buy a package of edible flowers at the farmers market for our garnishes. We think that although they are optional, they really make the drinks stand out. First we have our light purple Fizz à la Violette, a Ramos Fizz with Violette liqueur, which is sure to delight the senses, as well as take you back in time. It might look dainty, but it is quite strong. Second is our Mint Julep en Rose, a bourbon Mint Julep with an added dash of rose syrup. We know that some people take their Mint Juleps very seriously (the first page of The Gentleman’s Companion states that “The Mint Julep is One of Mankind’s Truly Civilized Inventions”), but did you know that the word Julep originates from the Persian word for rose, “gulab”? We saw it fitting that the Kitchen Caravan Julep would take on a pinkish hue. And last but not least is our Andalus cocktail, which has been a site favorite since it debuted last year. Vodka is infused with kumquats, sugar, and orange blossom water, and then shaken with mint and freshly squeezed orange juice. The result is a refreshing and slightly aromatic drink with delightful tones of bitter citrus.
Why not invite a group of friends over for a Garden of Cocktails?
Fizz a la Violette
Fizz à la Violette
Adapted from The Gentleman’s Companion: An Exotic Drinking Book
1 ounce gin
½ ounce violette liquor, such as Crème Yvette
2 teaspoons cream
1 fresh egg white (make sure that the egg is very fresh)
1 teaspoon sugar
Juice of ½ lemon and ½ a lime
Club soda
Garnish: baby pink or purple edible flowers
Combine all of the ingredients in a martini shaker and fill with grated ice. Shake for 1 minute and strain into an attractive goblet. Top off with a splash of club soda.
Mint Julep en Rose
Mint Julep en Rose
Adapted from The Gentleman’s Companion: An Exotic Drinking Book
6 sprigs of mint
1 teaspoon sugar + 1 teaspoon rose syrup
OR
2 teaspoons sugar + 1 tablespoon rose water
1 ounce bourbon
Juice of ½ lime
Garnish: Marachino cherry and edible flowers
Muddle 2 sprigs of the mint, the sugar, and rose syrup or rose water in a martini shaker. Make sure you muddle well to get the essence of the mint extracted. Add in a good amount of ice. Pour over the bourbon and add 2 more sprigs of mint (unbruised) and the lime juice. Shake it up really well and pour into a glass filled with ice and top with the remaining 2 sprigs of mint and a colorful edible flower.
The Andalus
For the Mix:
A Garden of CocktailsVodka (about 3/4 Liter)
Orange Blossom Water(about 1/4 cup)
Fresh kumquats, rinsed and halved (about 1 cup)
Sugar
For the Cocktail:
Juicing oranges (1 per drink)
Mint
Ice
To prepare the mix, get a large jug with a lid, and toss in the kumquats. Sprinkle over about 2 tablespoons or so of organic cane sugar. Pour over a few lugs of Orange Blossom Water. You want to moisten the kumquats, but not overpower the whole base with the aromatic water. Cover the lid and shake up really well to dissolve the sugar a bit. Pour over the vodka and shake again. Put in the fridge to rest for at least 2 days.
When you are ready to make the cocktail, juice 1 orange and pour into a martini shaker.
Combine the juice with 1 ounce of the infused vodka. Tear up a few fresh mint leaves and toss in as well. Shake up really well with ice and pour into a nice cocktail glass. It could be a martini glass, or even a large wine glass.
The proportions are always 1 part base : 1 orange : 1 drink, so just adjust according to the number of people you serve.
Nettles: Better than Spinach
Maybe it's not fair to compare. But I might not be able to help it. For the past few weeks we have been using stinging nettles in tarts, pasta sauces and soups, basically anywhere you might think of putting spinach. The leaves are very delicate and cook down quickly. And if you haven't tried them the flavor tastes incredibly springy and green.Stinging nettles like to grow near abandoned houses, in shady spots. They really do sting. Supposedly the sting helps with arthritis, so you could always leaving the picking job to your arthritic friends and family. Or wear gloves. The sting goes away with cooking or drying.
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