Monthly Archive
Oregano is Magical
Oregano is magical. I used to hate it with a passion; it was really the only herb that I could not stand. I attribute this hatred of oregano to the dried “stuff” found in shakers at Italian pizza places. Why is it that we like to shake that over our delicious pizzas? When everything else is so fresh, why the large dry flakes? Anyway, nowadays oregano has a special place in my heart.
My feelings about oregano started to change when I first ate it in Mexico. My grandmother serves it sprinkled over warm queso panela, where it accentuates the light flavor of the cheese. The first time I saw her prepare that botana, I could feel my heart start to palpitate. Why ruin a nice melted cheese with oregano? But when I tried it I realized that Mexican oregano has a much different flavor, because it is a bit more earthy and fungal.
The real transformation from me being an oregano hater to an oregano lover happened when I was in Lebanon and ate real za'atar on man’ouche for the first time. The salty and piquant seasoning quickly became my favorite seasoning, and I realized that what made it so magical was the wild oregano that substantiated it. The quality of the wild oregano was much better than that of the large Italian flakes, as it is really gathered in the mountains of the Eastern Mediterranean.
I became curious about the herb and wanted to see how it did in different combinations. Last year I played around with the Turkish dessert Mühallebi, and made it with oregano as a flavoring. My friend Theresa fell in love with my “oregano pudding” and so did I. This summer Emma made lots of ice tea with oregano from Jordan. We could not stop drinking it. On Monday I bought wild oregano, which is also known as za’atar, from Hawthorne Valley Farm at the Greenmarket. They are Jordanian and have the best organic foods, including yogurt, butter, produce, and tons of fresh herbs. I had to work on my demo recipe for next week, which will be an apple salad with herbs and olive oil. I used the oregano in the dish and could not believe how delicious it was. That same night I decided to do some home skin care treatments, and slathered honey and oregano on my face. I got a bit in my mouth and loved the combination of the sweetness with the herbs. And finally, last night I had goat milk yogurt with honey and oregano, and it was the best thing I have put in my mouth this week. As a side note I would like to mention that I combine two types of goat milk yogurt- I eat the thick Beltane Farm yogurt with the much looser Patches of Star. The combination of thick and creamy with loose and light makes for superstar texture.
If you can find fresh oregano at the markets, or better yet, the za’atar I mentioned at the markets, you are set for a week of herbal heaven.
A few more words on tomatoes (& plums)
The urgency of ripening of fruit has been a reoccurring theme since my return to Oregon. It started with a batch of plums, then figs, crab apples and pears. It is a community event, rallying together to make the most of what nature so generously supplies; a degree of anxiety accompanies the various harvests- the window of opportunity short but the quantity great.
Last week my friend Ross' birthday (Ross Kanaga of What People Eat: Oregon fame) coincided with the ripening of a large number of tomatoes. So in the vein of the themed birthday parties of our childhood, the evening was made into a tomato-centric affair. Everyone brought a dish with tomatoes. Lack of central communication yeilded more varieties of caprese salad than I could have thought possible, but they all tasted a little bit different and nothing beats fresh ripe tomatoes. We had two kinds of stuffed tomatoes, tomato pizza, dried tomatoes, bread with tomatoes baked into it, grilled cheese sandwiches with that same bread and fresh tomatoes, and a delicious carrot cake with dried tomatoes on top (carrots love tomatoes, in the garden and in the mouth- it sounds weird, but I'd encourage it again)
Now the plums on my friend Charley's tree are ripening by the bagful. And we can't eat them or give them away fast enough. We had a movie night last Thursday where we watched my new favorite movie "La Pointe Courte" by Agnes Varda and ate plum tart that Nancy made. She sent me the recipe for the tart that night and I've made it two times since. It's my perfect dessert right now. The original recipe is from epicurious, I'm reposting it here with Nancy's adjustments so you can all try:
Crust
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons (about) ice water
Topping
1 1/2 pounds plums, halved, pitted, each half cut into 6 slices
6 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
For crust:
Blend flour, sugar, and salt in processor. Add butter and cut in using on/off turns until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 2 tablespoons ice water; blend until moist clumps form, adding more water by teaspoonfuls if mixture is dry. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap dough in plastic and refrigerate at least 1 hour.
For topping:
Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss plums, 4 tablespoons sugar, ginger and cinnamon in bowl. Roll out dough on floured surface to 12 1/2-inch round. Transfer to rimmed baking sheet. Mix 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 tablespoon flour in small bowl; sprinkle over dough, leaving 2-inch plain border. Arrange plums in concentric circles on dough, leaving 2-inch plain border; drizzle with melted butter. Fold dough border in toward center. Sprinkle border with 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake tart until plums are tender and crust is golden, about 45 minutes.
Cool tart 1 hour on baking sheet. Run long thin knife under tart to loosen. Using 9-inch tart pan bottom, transfer tart to plate; serve at room temperature.
Buttermilk Couscous with Fresh Market Fruits
Couscous has made its way from North Africa not only to Europe, but also to the United States. Couscous is a very convenient grain, because it only needs to be steamed for about 5 minutes before it is ready. In North Africa, couscous is sometimes traditionally served with buttermilk poured over top. In North America, we often pair peaches with buttermilk, a sweet and sour combination that works beautifully in warm weather. This recipe is definitely a loose American adaptation of the way couscous has traditionally been prepared and eaten, and takes advantage of the fresh flavors of the season.
When I developed this recipe I also had a fresh blackberry puree in the fridge from The Bramble Cocktail I was working on at the time. I also had some Beltane Farm goat milk yogurt in the fridge, which is very thick and pleasantly piquant. My family was heading out on a trip the next day, and so we made a light dinner of this prepared couscous dish layered with berry puree and yogurt. It was delicious served this way, so I recommend that you also layer this dish with nuts, yogurts, fresh fruits, pureed juices, etc. Peaches are still abundant at the market, and there are quite a few berries left that the farmers are wanting to sell. So please source your fruit at the farmers market if you are going to make this dish!
Peach and Berry Buttermilk Couscous
1 10-ounce package of couscous, about 1 ¾ cups
1 ½ cups water
2 tablespoons honey
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
2/3 cup buttermilk
1 cup blueberries
½ cup blackberries, cape gooseberries, raspberries, or more blueberries
1 yellow peach, pitted and chopped into small dice
Place the dry couscous in a large casserole dish.
Bring the water, honey, vanilla, and cinnamon to a boil in a small saucepan.
Pour over the couscous and cover the dish for 3 minutes.
After 3 minutes, stir in the fruits and buttermilk with a fork and cover again for another 2-3 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed.
Serve with extra buttermilk or yogurt that has been sweetened.
Enjoy!!!
Cous Cous Fest of San Vito Lo Capo
This week marks the 11th Anniversary of the Cous Cous Fest of San Vito Lo Capo in Sicily. It is known that couscous is a staple of North African cuisine, where it is usually served with rich tagines of meats mixed with various fruits and spices. However, it is also true that couscous has been eaten in other parts of Europe for more than 800 years, mainly in Sicily. And it was in fact through Sicily, and not through Southern Spain, as one would assume, that this grain product entered the European culinary repertoire.
Sicilian cuisine is as rich and multilayered as its history. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans, among others, have ruled this predominant Mediterranean island, leaving their mark in agricultural practices, cooking styles, and eating habits throughout the ages. Under Roman rule, Sicily, along with North Africa and the Eastern Mediterranean, formed the breadbasket of the empire. The fertility of Sicily and its famed wheat production is what lured the Romans to conquer the island, which supplied the wheat for the empire’s swelling population. It almost goes without saying that wheat, known as “Similia”, was a major agricultural staple, and its subsequent culinary preparations formed the base of the diet. The most common Roman wheat dish was “puls”, a basic wheat porridge, from which there were many variations.
In 902 the Arabs gained control of Sicily, and their rule left a lasting legacy on the food and culture of the largest island of the Mediterranean. The Arabs improved the irrigation technology and agricultural productivity of the island, and introduced the hard “naked” variety of durum wheat, which was much sturdier than the softer wheat varieties of the Romans. They also brought the craft of rolling couscous, which in Italian is known as “incocciata”. Rolling the wheat with water and salt into small balls, then drying them in the sun, as couscous is prepared, was a way of preserving the wheat for Winter and times of scarcity. This is the same for dried pasta, of which the preparation was a major contribution of the Arabs to the Mediterranean diet. In fact, Sicily became a major exporter in that era of dried pasta throughout the region.
Western Sicily is where one can see the most prominent vestiges of Arab dominion, though one can see the legacy of the 400-year rule throughout the whole island. Couscous probably made its way to the island in the 12th century, and has remained a culinary tradition to this day. While in western North Africa couscous is served with poultry, beef, fish, or vegetables in a variety of combinations including fruits and spices, in Sicily the preparation is with seafood only. The cuscusu is steamed twice in the fish broth, known as “la ghiotta”, and is not always served with the actual fish pieces. The final dish is then garnished with a strong herb pesto of garlic, parsley, olive oil, and lemon juice.
This week we join in the Cous Cous Fest of San Vito Lo Capo with a few recipes that play with cuscusu and its derivatives in a playful way. We are not seeking authenticity with our recipes, but rather we hope to share what we have learned about this cross-cultural grain and the magical island of Sicily through our preparations.
Saturday Market Salad
Yesterday morning I woke up super early and headed down to the market to pick up some fresh milk from Milk Thistle to make a hazelnut ice cream I have been dreaming about for a long time. More on that later. I also wanted to buy ingredients to make a nice salad for my family before they headed back to Mexico in the afternoon.
To prepare the salad, I bought some blue sheep's milk cheese from 3 Corner Field Farm, a head of frisee and Boston lettuce, and some yellow peaches. When I got home I halved and pitted the peaches, and then slow-roasted them at 300° F for about 30-40 minutes. When they came out of the oven, I sliced them into thin pieces and poured their run-off juices into a small mixing bowl. I did this because I wanted to concentrate their sweetness, so that they would really counteract the cheese and nuts. I normally have a no-cubed-cheese policy, but since the blue cheese that I bought was not quite crumbly, I had to break my own rule and chop it up into small squares. By this point my grandmother had helped me wash the lettuce and frisee and tear the leaves up into more manageable sized pieces. She also made a balsamic dressing, adding the reserved peach juice for extra flavor. I had bought black walnuts from Integration Acres a few weeks back, and had some in my freezer. I toasted a couple of tablespoons of the nuts, chopped them coarsely, and added them to the salad. I was surprised at how their flavor mellowed out with the toasting. I usually eat them raw with goat milk yogurt, but will forever now toast them first. If you are reading this blog and are inspired to make a salad like the one I am describing, you can also use the regular walnuts you would usually buy in a supermarket. I just wanted to play around with the black walnuts and see how well they went with the flavors I was trying.
The salad was delish, and everyone really liked it. Some liked the cheese in the salad more than others, and I would have to say that I would have preferred a more crumbly, soft blue variety for the salad (the cheese alone is amazing). Everyone loved the slow-roasted peaches, however, which really did juxtapose with the other flavors in the salad. In Mexico people tend not to eat sweet and savory in the same dish, so my family is always happy to try a new flavor combination.
That is all. I just wanted to share and hope that you stop by the markets and make up your own salad using ingredients that you love and/or find interesting!
Something I Like
Yesterday I made a great discovery. I was on the go and did not have time to sit down to eat, so I went into my local health food store for a snack to tide me over. Among other things, I picked up a packet of raw and vegan Ko-Ko Krunchies by Didi's for Health. Their texture is sort of a cross between that of fruit leather and an energy bar. They contain only hazelnuts, sunflower seeds, dates, carob, and vanilla. They are not sweetened, but get their flavor from the natural dried fruits that they contain. The carob gave them a subtle chocolate flavor, and the dates were present, but not too rich, which often happens in energy bars. The only recommendation I have is to really take your time with the chewing. I ate mine at a steady pace and ended up with a really sore jaw afterwards.
Tomato & Herb Salad from the USQ Greenmarket Demo
Today was my first day back to the Union Square Farmers Market after a month-long hiatus. I was supposed to have made a spin off our Ricotta & Herb Stuffed Tomatoes, but our ricotta source did not work out as we had planned. So instead I made a Tomato and Herb Salad with corn, shallots, and cape gooseberries. I dressed it with a simple vinaigrette of lemon juice, white wine vinegar, and olive oil. The fact that our original dish did not work out was a blessing in disguise, because what I prepared today got rave reviews and is going to be something I will repeat over and over. As I promised everyone at the market today, here is the recipe below:
Tomato and Herb Salad
2 medium to large heirloom tomatoes (mix together different colors if possible)
1 ear of corn, shucked
2 tablespoons of thinly sliced shallot
About 4-5 sage leaves, 4-5 leaves of basil, a few mint leaves, and half the needles from a sprig of rosemary.
A handful of cape gooseberries (optional), husked
½ teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt
Remove the hard tip of the tomatoes, where it hangs from on the vine, with a paring knife.
Slice the tomato in half vertically, then slice each half in half vertically again. Now slice the tomatoes horizontally in very thin pieces. Transfer to a bowl and season with salt.
Lay the corn cob flat across your cutting board, and slice off the kernels. Add to the bowl with the tomatoes.
Finely chop the herbs, and toss into the bowl along with the thinly sliced shallot.
Halve and/or quarter the cape gooseberries, if using, and add to the mix as well.
Whisk together the lemon zest, lemon juice, white wine vinegar, a pinch of salt, and olive oil. Taste for seasoning and acid/oil balance and adjust if necessary. Pour over the salad and toss well.
Serves 4 as side dish.
This salad goes really well with simple things, like grilled fish or chicken. Wade from P.E. and D.D. Seafood gave me a raw scallop to try with the salad. Because it was well seasoned, all I did was pop the scallop in my mouth followed by a spoonful of the salad. It played such a harmony in my mouth that I was all smiles for the rest of the day. I recommend trying this recipe with some fresh scallops tossed together and eaten immediately, like a ceviche. Don’t be afraid of raw scallops- if you can get them fresh and local like I did, there is absolutely nothing to fear.
Happy Monday!
A Delicious Birthday
I admit it. I am a total birthday brat. I plan what I am going to do months before the actual date: where I will be, what I will do, and most importantly, what I will eat. This year I wanted to be in Connecticut, my favorite place to be in September, as Fall creeps in slowly and I suffer the nostalgia that comes with the changing of the season. I made a reservation at Firebox, my favorite restaurant in the area, way in advance. So last night four of my good friends from high school and I got together and had one of my favorite birthdays ever. Us Miss Porter's girls are a rowdy bunch, and we had so much fun catching up with each other about life and love and everything in between. There is no better way to do this than around a table with food and drink.
There were so many delicious things that we ate, but one of the highlights was a fried oyster with smoked paprika (my favorite spice) on top of a roasted corn succotash with bacon. It was simply awesome. I have a thing for corn and fried oysters, and when they came together on the same plate it was heaven. For my entree I ate the "fresh catch", which was line-caught halibut with a corn puree and roasted tomatoes. Like I said, I love corn anything, and the puree was excellent. For dessert we tried a little bit of everything- creme brulee, apple pie, sorbet, and chocolate semifreddo. I have always loved their creme brulee, which is especially great because of the local eggs they use. But last night the chocolate semifreddo was the one who won my heart. It was rich and delicious, without being too much so. Everyone had a fabulous time and it made me feel so lucky to celebrate my birthday in great company with such excellent food.
When I got home my grandmother and aunt had arrived from Mexico, and my mother had baked me a birthday cake. When we were growing up our birthday cakes were always two chocolate cakes sandwiched with jam and frosted with chocolate icing. It made me so happy to see that cake, even after having eaten my way through the Firebox dessert menu, because it was the cake of my childhood with my mother's touch.
Now I am one year older, one year wiser, and sooo ready for what comes my way next!






