Monthly Archive
Navigating "Fest Food" at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival
As many of you may know, today marks the start of the 2009 New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. While Jazz Fest may be first and foremost a music festival, the food there has become arguably an equal (if not stronger, in my opinion) draw for visitors. Food at outdoor festivals can sometimes suffer the consequence of circumstance – heat, outdoor preparation and high demand can turn what would be a perfectly delicious meal into a sub par dining experience. The vendors at Jazz Fest, however, have mastered their surroundings and the result is an exceptional display of New Orleans’ finest culinary achievements.
The offerings can be overwhelming; it’s important to do your homework and plan accordingly. A full list of vendors can be found here, and while it’s hard to go wrong with any of the foods available, its also essential to separate the ordinary from the extraordinary and the extraneous from the crucial.
First of all, Jazz Fest can be hot. Very hot. And while it may be tempting to grab a cold beer, you need to remember that beer will only take up space in your stomach and derail your culinary adventure. My drink of choice is the always-refreshing Rosemint Iced Tea, available at several stands throughout the festival. From there I suggest starting off with a few appetizers. If you’re in a group, the following dishes can all be shared: Crawfish Bread (perfectly spiced, plump crawfish in melted cheese sandwiched between French bread) is always a must, as are crawfish sacks (pastry “sacks” filled with creamy crawfish).
Po Boys are available in many different forms across the festival, but there are a few definite standouts. The long lines for the fried Soft-Shell Crab Po Boy may seem intimidating, but its definitely worth it. My all-time favorite, however, has to be the Cochon De Lait Po Boy; slow-smoked pork butt shredded and topped with cabbage and homemade horseradish sauce served on French bread. Its pure Heaven – last year I had two in a row and I’m not even remotely ashamed about that.
When it comes to fulfilling a sweet tooth, strawberry shortcake made with fresh Louisiana strawberries is always delicious but if its refreshing sweetness you’re after, Mango Freeze, a delicious sorbet-like treat, is the perfect end to a day.
Finally, one of the crown jewels of the Jazz Fest dining experience is Crawfish Monica – a delectable creamy pasta dish swimming in crawfish tails that has remained a fest favorite for over 25 years. If you can’t make it down to New Orleans, but you want to bring a little “fest flavor” to your kitchen, Crawfish Monica is simple to recreate at home and will definitely impress your friends. Below is a copy of the recipe, courtesy of Kajun Kettle Foods, the dish’s creator.
1 lb crawfish tails (shrimp or crab will work equally well if you
can't find crawfish)
1 stick of butter (NOT margarine)
1 pint half and half
1 good-sized bunch of green onions
3-10 cloves of garlic (depending on your taste)
Creole Seasoning to taste
1 lb cooked fresh pasta (rotini is preferred)
Cook pasta according to the directions on the package. Drain, then
rinse under cool water. Drain again, thoroughly.
Melt the butter in a large pot and saute onions and garlic for 3
minutes. Add the seafood and saute for 2 minutes. Add the
half-and-half, then add several big pinches of Creole seasoning,
tasting before the next pinch until you think it's right. If you've
boiled your own crawfish, save the fat and add it in as well.
Cook for 5 - 10 minutes over medium heat until the sauce thickens. Add
the pasta and toss well. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so over very low
heat, stirring often. Serve immediately, with lots of French bread and
a nice dry white wine.
A Happy Earth Day Salad
Happy Earth Day!
When we first started Kitchen Caravan, we filmed an entire season of episodes that never aired. We were aiming for a Spring launch, yet we were not able to get the site up until mid-June. We ended up with what we like to call "the lost season" of really great recipes that we never got to show. Some of those recipes have been recycled into new themes; our Chocolate Avocado Tambor, Opulent Mung Bean Balls, Basra Date Tarts, and Halloumi Bundles of Love all made it into the program eventually.
Our 2007 Earth Day episode was going to be about raw chocolate. We were all about munching on cocoa nibs in those days; everything had raw chocolate on it. We wanted people to see beyond sugar-laden milk chocolate candies, and start eating raw cacao nibs. Raw chocolate gets a lot of publicity for being a powerful antioxidant, as well as a great mood enhancer. But more importantly, I think, is the fact that chocolate only grows in a fully functioning rain forest. That means that buying organic, fair-trade chocolate helps support farmers preserve rain forest land that would otherwise be converted to grazing land for cattle. Never forget that you as consumers have a lot of power.
This recipe goes back to our roots, and is a great appetizer for the more adventurous eater. By all means, substitute the Taleggio for any strong meltable local cheese that you can find.
Mesclun Greens with Taleggio and Raw Chocolate
4 cups mesclun greens
2 tablespoons cacao nuts (otherwise known as cocoa nibs)
Handful of sun-dried tomatoes
A few Gaeta olives, or another dark and briny variety
2 thick slices of Taleggio cheese (however much you want really)
½ lemon and a splash of vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Pinch of salt
Soak the olives in water for about 5 minutes. Change the water and soak again.
Rinse the lettuce and dry well.
Chop up the sun dried tomatoes into slivers.
Drain, pit, and slice the olives.
Roughly chop the cacao nuts.
Toss all of the above ingredients with the olive oil, salt, and lemon juice.
Slice the cheese and place on a baking tray.
Melt in oven or toaster-oven until melted.
Meanwhile, whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, olive oil, and salt. Toss together the first four ingredients with the dressing and divide among two plates.
Using a spatula, transfer one slice of cheese to each salad. Watch as the melting cheese solidifies over the lettuce. The cheese drippings will add a deep undertone to the dressing.
Serve with bread.
A Dip Worth Repeating
Last weekend I was in charge of the menu for my friend's baby shower. I had to come up with some good appetizers; healthy dishes that girls would like to pick on, but not feel gross about eating. One of my favorite people at the Farmers Market is the Trout Man. I will return to this post and tell you all his real name next week. He sells fresh trout, smoked trout, sunchokes, and this week, ramps. I can't resist buying a smoked trout whenever I see him, so there is usually one hanging out in my refrigerator. They are so great to have on hand, because when you do not feel like cooking, or need to add an easy protein to something, it is already prepared and fully flavored. They come whole, but do not be intimidated because the skin peels right off, and the flesh can be separated from the bones quite easily.
Anyway, back to the dip story. I decided that I would try and use the ingredients I had in my fridge, which meant putting the trout to good use. A dip would be the best way to stretch it out to serve 10 people. Now I am not a cream cheese fan. I love creme fraiche, lebne, clotted cream. . . but for some reason I hate cream cheese. I cannot bring myself to buy a package of Philadelphia ever. My favorite substitute, essentially for its texture and taste, is Tofutti brand. With a tub of their "Better than Cream Cheese", a local smoked trout, and some herbs and vinegar, this dip could not have been easier to put together. It was a total hit at the Shower, and made a star appearance again at Easter. (Though at Easter it was outshown by the Muhammara). I made it for a cocktail party last night, and the whole thing was eaten quite quickly.
So here is the no-fail Smoked Trout Dip!
1 smoked trout (preferably local), skinned and filleted
1 tub of Tofutti Better than Cream Cheese
1 scallion, white and pale green parts, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons red onion or shallot, minced
4 tablespoons sherry or apple cider vinegar
1-2 tablespoons freshly minced chives
In a small bowl, cover the onion with the vinegar and let it sit for a few minutes.
Use a food processor to whip up the cream cheese. Add the smoked trout in pieces to the bowl and continue to process. Drain the vinegar and add to the bowl, as well as the scallion.
Stir in the onion and chives and serve with crackers.
Makes about 1 3/4 cups of dip.
Greenmarket on a Budget: Grilled Halloumi and Dandelion Greens
This is now my fourth post about eating meals based in foods bought at the Greenmarket while on a budget. The point of these is not that you would copy my recipes exactly, but that you get a sense of how easy it is to put something local together for an inexpensive meal.
I often buy my yogurt from Patches of Star Farm at the Union Square market. They sell a variety of goat milk yogurt and cheese products, but I usually just stick to the yogurt. I once bought their low-salt chêvre, which is an excellent creamy cheese for sandwiches, for my local New York cheese tasting. They have always sold Halloumi cheese, a Cypriot grilling cheese with a unique flavor and strangely delightful rubbery texture, but for some reason I had never bought it. And I love Halloumi cheese. It is up there in my top 5 for sure. Well, for some random reason that only God knows, the other day I picked up a $5 pack of the Halloumi. A small price to pay for a slice of bliss, I thought. I did not quite know what I was going to do with it, besides the usual flambé with brandy and lemon juice, so it sat in my fridge for a good 2 weeks.
Yesterday I realized that I had a bunch of dandelion greens in my fridge, and that I would just eat the Halloumi with the greens. I prefer my greens steamed over sautéed (always), so I just tossed them with some lemon juice and olive oil. I sliced the rubbery Halloumi and grilled it in a pan until it got the little marks on it (totally unnecessary but visually satisfying). I then topped it with my favorite spice blend, za’atar. I have industrial quantities of za’atar from when I went a little crazy ordering from a Lebanese food company, not realizing that 1 kilo goes a very long way. Oh well, this was the perfect moment to mix it with some olive and flax oil and drizzle it atop the cheese. And that was it. Steamed Dandelion Greens with Za’atar and Halloumi. Dandelion greens are very bitter, which might be considered an acquired taste, but it is also a seasonal taste for Spring. What is good about the cheese is that it is mellow and almost sweet, which counters the bitter greens nicely.
Anyway, the total cost of my lunch was probably $7 or so. How much do you pay for a salad at Cosi? ? ?
Cool Easter Eggs
Today I did a demo at the Union Square Greenmarket on Eggs. Eggs are everywhere! They are Spring's symbol of fertility, and super sources of protein. I love eggs. I think my favorite way to eat eggs is in the French style Oeuf Mayonnaise, which is hardboiled and covered with mayo.
Anyway, today at the Greenmarket Manager's table they had made naturally dyed Easter eggs using all sorts of fun ingredients. Beets and onion skins were for red, blueberries and red cabbage for blue, and spinach for green. Tara, the Greenmarket Manager/egg dyer extraodinaire, had used things like cilantro leaves and star prints to make beautiful designs on the eggs. I thought I would share this photo and urge you to go down and pick up the instructions they have down at the table.
Greenmarket on a Budget: Three Ingredients
I am so happy that Wild Hive Farm is back on Fridays selling their grains and flours. Last Friday I stocked up on their spelt, one of my favorite whole grains. I kept thinking I would do a dish with mushrooms or something a bit fancy like that, and had the bag of grains sitting in my kitchen waiting for some sort of inspiration. But what I ended up eating for lunch the other day sprung up in my head so organically that I had to record it. I might eventually make that something fancy with mushrooms, but I feel like that has been done before too many times. But then again mushroom risotto never gets old.
So anyway, this week I had been preparing for a library presentation at the Lucy Robbins Welles Library in Newington, Connecticut, where I was going to do a talk and demonstration on Sprouts. I had forgotten what day of the week it was, but found myself in Union Square on Wednesday in any case- sometimes I feel like I must be on autopilot. One of the first things I found was mâche, 1 bunch for $2 or 3 bunches for $5. Of course I took the offer. Knowing that I had Patches of Star goat milk yogurt in the fridge at home, my mind drifted away to memories of Turkey and mezes of purslane in yogurt. Mache is not similar to purslane in any other way than that it is green, but I wanted to eat it in yogurt regardless. It then occurred to me that this would be a perfect spelt opportunity. Yes, spelt in goat milk yogurt with mâche.
When I returned home, I boiled the spelt in simmering water with a bay leaf, thyme, and garlic. I worked on what I had to do while it was cooking away behind me. When the grains were cooked through and soft to the bite, I drained them and mixed them in with the yogurt and broken up bits of mâche. That was it. I might have added a few drops of lemon juice, and come to think of it, I should have added some olive oil. Oh well, I guess it was so good I did not think to add anything else. I think that the total cost of the meal must have averaged out to be under $5.
Directory:
Patches of Star goat milk yogurt: 16 oz for $4
Wild Hive Farm Spelt Grains: 1 lb 8 oz bag for $5
Mâche information on its way . . .






