Those of you who follow the blog know that I love mulberries. Well, dried mulberries really. I had not had a fresh mulberry until today, when I spotted one at a fruit stand in Bebek, Istanbul. To be honest, I was not even sure that they really existed. For some reason, I thought mulberries were only to be eaten dried. That was quite silly of me to think, but until one does not see something, sometimes it is hard to believe.
The mulberries were not hard to spot. I was walking down the street (after just enjoying a Mastic-flavored gelato by the way), when I caught large white berries out of the corner of my eye. They were so fluffy, almost cotton-like, and clear white. They looked exactly like the larger, water-filled version of their dried counter part really (I feel a bit like Russel Brand with this explanation). I bought a small amount of the berries, which basically meant me telling the fruit seller “Very little” in my Tarzan Turkish, and then nodding and using hand movements to get the right amount into my box.
I enjoyed the berries tonight. I can’t say that they are my favorite fruit. I would be grossly exaggerating. But I did like them quite a bit. Their texture is like eating a giant blackberry about to explode, with a very elusive sweetness that just hints that it is a fruit. I would not pair them with anything, because you would miss their flavor if they were combined with anything else. I prefer dried mulberries, because their flavor is much more concentrated and delicious, though still quite elusive. Their texture is also a bit more fun, since it is slightly chewy. Regardless of my relaxed attitude towards them, I am glad that I found fresh mulberries in Istanbul today. What is ever more exciting than discovering a new fruit?
Sometimes it happens that I make something for myself (not an episode) that I love so much I have to share it on the blog. The other day I was at home with a few items in my fridge, but it did not seem like a whole lot. It just so happened that what I did have were just the right ingredients. My mother had bought me some delicious spinach at Friday’s Greenmarket (aren’t moms the best?). It was incredible, which is not an adjective that I throw around, nor is it one that I would normally use to describe spinach. I also had mesclun mix (also from the market), a few extra chickpeas (I forget what I had used the rest for), a few eggs, some whole wheat bread, and thick goat milk yogurt. I tossed the chickpeas with some olive oil, cumin, and paprika, and I roasted them in the oven until they were slightly blistered and crispy. I made a salad with the mesclun and spinach, and dressed it with olive oil and balsamic and lemon juice. I tossed in the chickpeas, and then poached an egg, and lay it on top of the greens. Next to that I served a dollop of yogurt, which when mixed with the egg and chickpeas, is a divine accompaniment. And of course I had toasted whole wheat bread to sop up the runny yolk. It was a simple dish, but with many accents of flavor and textures. We are in the season of salads, and I will be eating as many greens as I can get my hands on these days. I hope you all do too. Happy Spring!
I have been making a ton of meze dishes recently. Mezes are small
plates that are usually served as the first course at the main meal in many Eastern Mediterranean countries. You start with some hummus, babaghanoush (or mutabal), lebne, seasonal vegetables, etc. before having a simply grilled meat or fish. I love this
style of eating, because you get to eat a variety of dishes that are
usually centered around incredibly fresh ingredients. And if you are someone who loves
to cook, you can always get creative and have fun with the traditional
recipes. Meze are my staple for get-togethers. The other night a
group of friends got together for a Mediterranean-themed pot-luck
dinner, and I pulled out some Kitchen Caravan recipes. I made our Traditional Lebanese Hummus; Avocado, Cannellini & Preserved Lemon
Dip; a light eggplant dip with mint; and our Waldorf Salad in
Circassian Clothing. The hummus always takes a while to prepare, but as with
everything in a slow kitchen, the extra time and effort is well worth
it. I always keep leftovers to eat in sandwiches or with potatoes
(weird idea, but check this out). I love the Circassian Chicken dish,
which is a Turkish recipe that we adjusted to include black walnuts,
and in the Fall, Conchord grapes and crisp apples (hence the Waldorf).
The black walnuts are incredibly rich, but pair well with the mellow
chicken. The grapes and apples add a crunch that cuts the heaviness of
the nut sauce. I normally do not cook recipes from food magazines
(I have the tendency to deviate), but the article in this last Food and
Wine was too intriguing for me not to try. They highlighted a young
Turkish chef who likes to play on traditional ingredients, and I was
hosting Book Club at my house, so I thought I might give them a try. I
was going to make the green lentil hummus, but once the lentils were
fully cooked, I realized that they were actually split peas. That is
what I get for storing my lentils and peas in the same container.
Anyway, the split pea hummus (which I added a bunch of mint to) was a
huge hit. I also made his dirty potatoes, which are new potatoes that
are roasted and then tossed with an olive paste. My favorite new
pantry staple is zeytin ezmesi, or Turkish olive paste, which you can
use in a million different ways and it is super cheap. The recipe called for chopped Kalamata olives, but I say that everyone should keep a jar of zeytin ezmesi handy. Last but not
least, I made the goat cheese wrapped in grape leaves. For some reason
I have always been intimidated by grape leaves, but when I read this
recipe, they seemed so non-confrontational. I did mine with Coach Farm
aged goat cheese, and tossed it with marjoram, oregano, and dried
lavender (the recipe calls for thyme, rosemary, and lavender). You
basically wrap the cheese slices in blanched grape leaves and then
grill them lightly until the cheese melts. They were to die for, and I
will be telling everyone to make them. That and split pea hummus.
There are certain foods that we associate with love and romance: chocolate, oysters, champagne, strawberries, etc. But the true ingredient that should make Valentine’s Day so special is time. Most of us run around like chickens without heads on, trying to build our careers and/or make ends meet. We barely have time for ourselves, let alone time to spend with the people we care about. One of the nicest ways to do this is by cooking and eating (didn’t you know I was going to say that!). Seriously. No restaurant is ever as good as a night spent with a family member or friend in the kitchen, creating something delicious together. I am particular to eating at home, because I love to cook, but if you usually spend your V-Days out of the house, I recommend you stay in this Sunday. We have lots of recipes that we have developed over the years with love in mind; most of them have chile, pistachio, and rose in them, and they are all worth trying.
Start out any celebration dinner with a nice cocktail. Passion Potion is an exotic blend that you can make at home and is sure to be something you have never tasted before. For entrees, Risotto and Pasta are comfort foods at their best. Our Casanova’s Risotto with saffron and pistachio oil is nourishing and delicious. A pasta we love to share is the Forbidden Love Pasta, known as Amor Prohibido in Spanish. One of Kitchen Caravan’s first recipes, it is pasta with an Acorn squash sauce touched with a hint of smoky chipotle. It is topped with pumpkin seeds, walnuts, and pomegranate. The dish is quite simple to make, yet the layers of flavor give it a lot of depth.
Our desserts are the best part of the meal. This year’s Valentine’s dessert, Napoleons "in Love" is one of my all-time favorites. It is a classic French Napoleon, but with Mastiha pastry cream (Mastiha is an aromatic resin that is used as a spice in Eastern Mediterranean cooking) and rose petal glaze. The various flavors and textures come together in perfect harmony. For something super chocolatey, I would recommend the Chocolate and Anise “Champurrado" Tart. It is a deep, rich chocolate tart scented with anise in a Mexican cornmeal crust. Chocolate and Anise are a match made in heaven, and if you have never tried them together before, you must make this tart.
If you do not want to cook, celebrate anyway, even without a Valentine. Celebrate the friendships and familiar love you have in your life and count your lucky stars.
